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Stump Henge: A Unique Airbnb Near Mesa Verde National Park

updated March 17, 2021

Set on a quiet homestead outside Dolores, Colorado, is a tiny dwelling that is both cozy and unforgettable. Two witty and welcoming teachers have opened their home and an authentically-replicated Sheepherder’s wagon for travelers, many of them drawn to Mesa Verde National Park nearby.

And when I say they open their home, I mean quite literally. Access to the guest-reserved bathroom is through a sliding door that is accessible at all hours. 

The bathroom is quite lovely, by the way—squeaky clean, terra cotta tiles, and high-quality soap. And in a way, an overnight here doesn’t feel like an Airbnb experience at all. It feels like a stay at a family member’s home.

Welcomed by Wendy, who is genuinely warm and purposefully direct, the thoughtful amenities are numerous. Inside the wagon, a jug of chilled water pairs with an antique porcelain washbasin and rolled-up towels. There’s a two-burner gas stove for making coffee and teas, also provided. A cubby built into the exterior holds kindling and newspapers to get an outdoor fire pit going.

Exhausted after a cold night’s sleep (28 degrees F in late June) camping at Black Canyon of the Gunnison, we asked for local picnic advice as our big evening plans. Wendy directs us to a trail leading to Escalante Pueblo, Ancestral Pueblo ruins easily viewed at the top of a half-mile paved path overlooking McPhee Reservoir. The site is part of the Anasazi Heritage Center and Canyon of the Ancients National Monument. 

Posted fliers caution hikers about the black bear and mountain lion activity. Our trusty machete nearby just in case (not that we’ve ever had to use it), we grill bison burgers on a small camp stove, sipping vodka from our YETI tumblers and watching the sun dip below the mesa. 

Chatting with Wendy and her husband, Paul, we learn about the diversity of their guests. A couple from Norway had left just before us, traveling on a multi-week road trip across the US. We hear of their lifelong dedication as teachers, the carefulness of talking politics in Colorado, family members in the military, and a food column Wendy used to write called the Parsnippet. We talk about the end of local journalism, and all of it makes me realize that Wendy and Paul would make fantastic neighbors.

After saying goodnight, Wendy wheels a red wagon carrying a cooler and placemats to our door. The next morning we wake up to fresh blueberries, homemade yogurt, and an assortment of every sort of topping one could want, including toasted coconut, a personal favorite. Everything is stored in glass jars and neatly labeled. A tasty cranberry nut loaf wrapped in waxed paper is included too. We take turns eating it while feeding nibbles to their three sweet farm dogs as we sit beside a gushing stream.

Photographs and text by Elaine Skylar Neal / Travels and Curiosities

Is Mesa Verde National Park Worth Visiting?

Located in the four corners region of Colorado, Mesa Verde National Park is quite the long-haul trek from Denver. If you’re visiting the state for the first time, you’ve just moved here, or you’re just trying to justify the 7-hour road trip, you might be wondering, is Mesa Verde National Park worth visiting?

The short answer is, absolutely, definitely, 100% yes, it’s worth the trip.

With that said, there are a few things you’ll want to consider before heading all the way through southwestern Colorado, especially depending on the time of year you’re planning to visit and what you’d like to see.

For instance, the cliff dwellings are among the most popular attractions at the park, and tours are only offered during certain seasons and times. To help you out, we’ve put together a Quick Guide for First-Time Visitors to Mesa Verde National Park, including all the top things to do and see within this historic national park. Happy exploring! ❤️

more unique things to do in southern colorado

Image Credits

Stump Henge Sheepherder’s Wagon - Elaine Skylar Neal/Travels and Curiosities; Mesa Verde Petroglyphs - Dominic - stock.adobe.com; Great Sand Dunes National Park, The UFO Watchtower and Colorado Gators Reptile Park - Elaine Skylar Neal/Travels and Curiosities